Haida Gwaii: North Beach

Our last day, we spent it at North Beach. North Beach is the surfing area, with 26 km of crashing surf on this sandy beach. We started on the East side of Tow Hill and just started walking to Rose Spit. I was hoping to find Japanese sea glass floats, but instead I found lots of plastic bottles, shallop shells and even a live scallop. We came across a fishing boat that shipwrecked on the beach in the last 15 years. We hoped to make it to Rose Spit, but it was a little too far for us. We ended our afternoon having a campfire along the beach before heading to the overnight ferry back to Prince Rupert. I want to go back to Haida Gwaii, but next time in the summer to get my surf on. I added some pics of where we stayed, Nadu Loft. In case anyone is looking for a place to stay when they go to Haida Gwaii, it sleeps up to 4 and has a full kitchen.

Haida Gwaii: Tlell

On our third day on the island, we checked out the sand dunes in Tlell. The sand dunes are located on the east side of Graham island and wind erosion plays a large role in the development of the dunes. Fortunately, the trees prevent further erosion inland. We hiked along the beach for about 5km finding lots of buoys and plastic bottles. My only complaint about the Charlottes is the amount of plastic debris found on beaches. It only goes to prove how much waste is dumped in the ocean. After 5km, we reached the Tlell River that cuts across the beach. Although it was only 1 foot deep, it was freezing and we couldn't cross to checkout the shipwreck further down the beach. We hiked back and took a trail on the other side of the river that was a 10 km loop trial that takes you out to the Pesuta shipwreck. Today, only the bow of the freighter remains from when she crashed here in 1928.

Haida Gwaii: Golden Spruce & Skidegate

On our second day, we went on a trail in search on the golden spruce. According to different people there are several different versions of how the golden spruce no longer exists after it was cut down due to logging operations. The golden spruce was a unique sitka spruce that was golden coloured due to a genetic mutation. In 1997, the golden spruce was chopped down at a political statement against industrialized logging. Thankfully in the '77, some of the tree was grafted to grow golden spruces in UBC's botanical gardens and they have now planted saplings, where the tree once stood. The trail along the Yakoun River was beautiful with second growth trees and some old hemlock. After our hike, we headed to Skidegate to checkout the Kaay 'llnagaay Heritage Centre to look at poles made by Bill Read and carvers of the past. They had amazing rock carvings and a chilkat blanket. We arrived just after grey whales and orcas left the harbour. The museum was amazing, with tall windows facing the harbour, a performance house, and a carving shed. One of the main carving projects was to build a pole to replace a pole that was given back by Banff park. In the past, poles were taken down from Haida Gwaii and sold to parks and museums across the world. The Haida people have been working to get their poles returned to them and they have been successful with getting poles back from Chicago and London, England. When they have receive a pole back, they are commissioned to create a new pole for that park or museum. This is a part of the ongoing reconciliation of the island. The Haida have a unique political power because they have not had any land disputes with any other Aboriginal groups, which the government counts on to stall the treaty negotiations. Today, the Haida government is one of the most powerful Aboriginal groups in the country because of their undisputed land claims and have been working towards preserving their past and planning for their future. We ended our day at Balance Rock, a famous landmark on island left over from glacial erosion in the last glacial period 10, 000 yrs ago

Haida Gwaii: Tow Hill and Agate Beach

For spring break my brother, Torben joined us for a trip to Haida Gwaii. We stayed on Graham Island at this awesome little placed called Nadu Creek loft. We explored the north end of the island and it was super beautiful. The weather was sunny and warm and it was picturesque with waves crashing onto the beach. Agate Beach is named after the rocks that can be found there. It has lots of campsites that must be super popular in summertime, but was super deserted this time of year. I found abalone shells on the beach and collected lots of rocks. Tow hill is on the east side of Agate Beach and separates the rock beach from the sands of North Beach. Tow Hill was once home to a Haida tribe, that used the hill for protection. Stories of Tow Hill, include one about a spider that would spin down from the hill and eat people that passed down below, until a brave warrior killed the spider and took out all the skeletons of his people out of the spiders belly. Tow Hill has awesome walking trails with will built steps, bridges, and viewing platforms.The geographer in me was so excited by all the sweet rock formations. We ended the day watching the sunset over Port Clements

When Gino came to town...

Gino Odjick came to Gingolx the first weekend of spring break as part of traveling Aboriginal youth conference. The main message of the 2 day event was for Aboriginal youth to see how they could be successful and create a stronger self. Topics included, family respect, safe sex, goal setting, and education. Gino was born in an Algonquin Native Reserve named Chum Sa Bay in Quebec. He mentioned that he never imagined he could become a professional athlete until an aboriginal hockey player came to his reserve when he was young and instilled an NHL dream in young Gino. Highlights of the day was Q&A with Gino about his hockey career. Yes, he is still in contact with fellow Canucks, Pavel Pure and Cliff Ronning. He says he talks to Pavel every week on the phone and Cliff every month. Pavel just finished is Bar exam in Moscow and is living on an exclusive island in Flordia and Cliff is creating custom hockey sticks. We talked lots about the NHL's current problem with concussions and hits to the head. Gino's reasoning is that hockey teams no longer have their enforcer, who's job it is to protect the star players. Players now can do a dirty hit and don't have to worry about someone crushing them next shift. Although I can agree with Gino on this, the game has changed with no 2 line passes and have become a lot faster making it harder for enforcers to keep up. For the enforcing part, it makes sense why Gino and Pavel are still friends, it saved Pavel over and over again. Gino talked about how a concussion ended his career by a puck shapshotted during practice and how he now is co-owner of the Musquem golf course in Vancouver, where is lives. It was really interesting and I am glad I checked it out.

Carving Shed

In Laxgalts'ap, we have have a craving shed at the end of the village by the river. Dan and I had the opportunity to meet some local carvers and watch them work. Currently, they are working on 4 poles that will be erected for the expansion of the medical clinic. The four poles will represent the 4 houses, frog, wolf, eagle, and killer whale. The poles were made out of yellow cedar that came from the forest surrounding Lave Lake at the entrance of the modern day Nisga'a territory. The carvers explained the process of carving to us and how the bottom of the tree is actually the top of the pole. Often, we think (at least I thought) that as the pole gets narrower at the top it reflecting the narrowness of the top of the tree, but this is not the case. The top of a tree is full of knots and burrs that make carving details difficult, so the intricate carvings need to be carved on the bottom of the tree where the knots are not so tight. The style of carving in Nisga'a today is based on a late chief, who carved poles in the 1860s. Unfortunately, most of his poles are now gone as they were lost through missionaries and museums. Today, a piece from one of his 60 foot poles sits outside the shed weathering in the snow.